R-U-S-T is definitely a four letter word when looking at classic Mustangs for sale. It's a cancer that affects almost every vintage car to some extent, is very expensive to fix and sometimes hard to spot. Underestimating the cost and amount of rust is a common newbie mistake, but also can catch seasoned enthusiasts. It can turn a cheap Mustang project car into a money pit quicker then you can whip out your checkbook. It's almost always to your advantage to opt for the more expensive car without rust then the bargain car in need of severe rust repair.

Many elements factor into how rusty a car is. What part of the country is it in? Has it been driven in the snow where they salt the roads? Has it been garage kept or left to soak out in the driveway? In addition to these generic factors vintage Mustangs have their own specific problem areas for rust.

• Cowl Vents - The cowl is the vented area just behind the hood at the base of the windshield. The design allows for fresh air intake for the heater, but also allows water and leaves to collect and just sit. Check the carpet near the firewall for any moisture or a mildew smell. Take a garden hose and run water down the windshield so it goes into the cowl openings. Then poke your head under the firewall from the inside and look for any leaks. If this area is rusted it can be very expensive to fix properly. Everything under the dash needs to be removed, the rusted metal cut out and new patch panels welded in and sealed up. If the used Mustang you're looking at has a cowl leak, factor into the price some professional help to be required to fix it properly.
• Floor Boards - If you can, pull the carpet up. Cowl leaks or heater core leaks can cause small amounts of moisture to soak into the carpet where it sits and attacks the floor boards. Also check the floor pans from underneath the car. Heavy undercoating can make rust hard to spot, but tap on them and listen for solid metal. Check for repair work while you're under there. A proper floor board repair will be welded in, not screwed or riveted, which is really just a quick fix by the previous owner.
• Front Fenders - The lower rear corner of the front fenders is another typical rust problem area. Dirt and snow gets thrown up there constantly and rust finds a good home.
• Rear Quarters - The rear quarter panels are supposed to have drain holes so that any water getting in through a bad trunk seal will work it's way out. Unfortunately over the years these drains get plugged up and this area can get filled with dirt, leaves and moisture. To inspect pull the trunk mat our and lift the floor extenders (if they're even still there) Use a flashlight to peer into the bottom of each quarter panel. Heavy rust will be obvious, but also look carefully for bubbles in the paint. Thick undercoating can sometimes make this hard.
• Wheel Wells - The curve of the wheel wells creates a lip on the inside that holds mud and snow. Bubbles in the paint are a sure sign, but also use a mirror or take off the tires to see back behind on top of the lip.
• Door Bottoms - Like the rear quarters, the doors have factory drain holes at the bottom that can get plugged. Once the door window weather stripping gets old and cracks rain can easily get inside the door skin. Again, look for bubbles in the paint on the exterior. Also lay on your back on the ground under the open door to look at the seam where the skin is crimped on to the door shell. Any rust at the seam is sure to mean much more rust hiding inside.
• Shock Towers - Pop the hood and check the inner fenders near where the shocks mount. This area is sometimes rusted all the way through even though the area around is perfectly good sheet metal.
• Battery - While you're inspecting the engine bay check the area around the battery. Years of battery acid can eat off the paint and make this area very susceptible to rust.

Battery tray rust

Inner fender rust at shock tower

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Finding a way to get your prized new Mustang home might seem like the last step, but it really needs to be one of your first considerations. Transporting a vehicle can be expensive and time consuming so you need to understand your options early and factor the costs into your buying decision.

Driving it home

If your new Mustang is in good shape you might consider driving it home. This of course won't work if it's an ultra high dollar or low mileage car that you don't want to put extra miles on. Likewise if it's a project Mustang with questionable mechanics you probably don't want to run the risk of being stranded in your journey or causing further damage to a worn out engine. Time is another factor. Depending on your situation it may not be feasible to take a few days off of work to fly out and drive back from some far flung location. But if you have the time and the Mustang is in good shape you really should consider making the trip. Ask most veteran car guys and they'll have fond memories of driving across country in one of their past cars. Or if the trip didn't go well then at least they have some great stories! It can be a great bonding experience where you not only learn about your new baby, but have a lot of fun doing it!

Another option is to trailer it home yourself. Obviously if you own a capable tow vehicle and a trailer this is a no-brainer. If you have just the tow vehicle you can rent a trailer to tow back one way. All the large moving rental companies offer flat trailers or tow dollies for rent. If you have neither a truck or a trailer you can use those same moving rental companies to rent both. This is the most expensive option and if you're considering this you really should price out some transport services first. The difference in price may be less then you think and the process will be a whole lot easier.

No matter which option you chose to drive it home your self you need someone to join you on the jaunt. If you drive the car your friend should be following in a reliable car in case you run into problems. If you're mechanically inclined bring a fully stocked tool box for the quick fix. Remember, these are old cars and something can go wrong on even a nicely restored example.

Transport Companies

Professional transporters will be the least hassle, but most expensive option. Check online or in national collector car publications, like Hemmings for companies who can haul your new toy home. You can work either with the auto shipper directly or with a broker who will typically be easier to work with if you're new to this. You'll have a choice of an open truck or fully enclosed trailer. Prepare to pay a premium of 50-60% more for the piece of mind of a fully enclosed trailer.

Transport trucks have slots for several cars. It's in their best interest to keep their loads as full as possible, so be prepared for some time delay in getting your Mustang home. They may pick it up from the seller, but then drive to several large hubs for additional pickups or drop offs. Trucks can wait at these hubs for days until they get enough cars to fill their load. Delivery time could be weeks. Be sure to ask about their delivery window up front.

Insurance - No matter how you decide to transport your new Mustang home be sure that it's fully insured the minute you (or your transport company) take possession. Call your insurance company ahead of time and explain the situation. They may have special insurance just for the transport process. Transport companies also offer insurance. Find out what they offer and talk to your own insurance agent to be sure you're fully covered between the two policies.

Another possible way to save some money is having the car shipped from major hub to major hub, rather than door to door. In this situation the seller would have to drive the car to the local hub and you would pick it up at your local hub. Depending on how far away the hubs are from you this could save you quite a bit.

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Buying a Mustang, or any car totally sight unseen is always going to be a risk. If at all possible you should make the effort to inspect it before buying. But when it's located half way across the country it may not make sense to spend the time or money to travel and see it first hand. If so there are still resources at your disposal to have the car checked out.

Do a search for Mustang clubs located near the car you're considering. Often a member will be willing to take a look at it for a small fee. Online Mustang forums can have the same community feel of a club and you may be able to find a member who lives close by. One advantage is someone else will typically be more subjective in their assessment of what you think is your dream Mustang. They won't have the same emotion tied up in it, which is a plus when looking at Mustangs for sale. Larger towns and cities may also have a Mustang parts house or restoration shop. They'll probably charge more to go see the car, but they'll have the experience and knowledge to give you an accurate report.

It's always best to inspect your car in person if you can. If you lack the technical knowledge you can always pay an expert to go look at it. But even so you should tag along and learn as much as you can.

• Always bring someone with you. Obviously it helps if they're knowledgeable about cars, but even if they aren't it's important to have someone else there to lend a hand as well as give a less emotional opinion of the car then you may have. Always look at a car in daylight and good weather. Dusk makes paint look much better than it is and nighttime viewings are simply worthless. You want the weather to be good because you'll need to get down on the ground and climb under the car. You also want to take your time, which you won't do if it's 30 degrees and snowing.
• Compare what you see in person to what the seller told you on the phone. Slight exaggerations about condition are to be expected from most sellers. They're trying to put as positive a spin on the car as they can. But blatant lies or misrepresentations are not acceptable. This should throw up a huge red flag and your best bet is to pass and find another car.
• Bring a tarp and flashlight to crawl under the car looking for rust and damage. See sidebar on typical rust areas.
• Sight down all the body panels to check for waves or wrinkles in the reflection. Pay attention to the gaps between body panels. They should be consistent. Any large difference points to a replaced body panel or past accident causing the misalignment. Bring a soft refrigerator magnet to look for body filler. The magnet will stick well to painted sheet metal, but not as well through Bondo. You can also get a fairly cheap tool specifically for this, which gives you an estimated thickness of body filler as well. Look for any bubbles in the paint or vinyl top. This is a sure sign of rust and unfortunately just the tip of the iceberg. Small amounts of rust bubbling through paint means lots of rust in the metal below. Don't be fooled into thinking small bubbles are an easy repair.
• Check to be sure the engine is cold before you start it up. If the seller has warmed up the engine it may be a sign he's trying to hide something. When you start it for the first time have your friend stand back and watch for smoke out of the tail pipe.
• While the engine is warming up check all the little things; turn signals, brake lights, wipers, lights, horn, radio. Once the temp gauge says it's warm turn on the heater full and check both for heat and defrost. Pay attention for the sweet smell of anti-freeze. If you smell it the heater core is probably leaking. Also sniff around for any mildew, indicating other water leaks.
• Cowl leaks are a very common (and expensive) problem on early Mustangs. The seller may not be crazy about this, but try to spray down the windshield and cowl (air vents between back of hood and base of windshield) with a garden hose. You don't want to spray with any force. Just run water directly into cowl and then tuck your head under the dash looking for leaks.
• If possible try to test drive without the seller going with you. Leave your car as insurance. You don't want the seller talking during the test drive when you should be listening for noises and paying attention to details. Get into as many typical road situations as you can in a reasonable amount of time. Drive both surface streets and freeway speeds. Pay attention to any vibrations at speed (balance and/or alignment), squeaking over bumps (suspension), grinding noise (rear end or front bearings) or brake noises. Test the brakes fairly hard at a couple of stop signs. Don't get crazy. This isn't your car yet. But brake hard enough to tell if they work well and if the car wants to dive off to one side. Drive slowly past your friend or a wall close to the road with your windows open. The idea is to listen for noises from the engine or drive train that you might not hear in the cockpit. These sounds will bounce off the adjacent wall and back through your open window so you can hear them. If possible have your friend follow you down the road in their car to verify that your potential purchase tracks straight. If the front and rear tires don't seem to line up this is a sign of a fairly major past accident.
• After the test drive park it in a clean spot of driveway so you can notice any leaks. Keep the engine running and pop the hood to listen for any tapping or clicking. Then shut it off and check all the fluids. You're not so much checking the fluid levels (although they should all be full) but rather you're checking the color and smell. Is the oil dark and sludgy? Does is smell of fuel? Is it milky? If so there's a water leak in the engine. Does the transmission fluid look dark or smell burnt? Same with power steering fluid? Look around the brake master cylinder for signs of leaks. Brake fluid will bubble paint, so if you see any in this area it could mean a leak, or at least a sloppy refill of the fluid.
• While you're under the hood look at the sheet metal in the engine bay. You're looking for wrinkles or welding indicating a past accident.
• Right before you leave peak under the car again looking for new leaks since you parked it. Also, start it up one last time, again with your friend standing behind looking for any smoke from the exhaust.

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If all goes well with your initial emails and phone call(s) then ask the seller to send you backup documentation. If you found the car on eBay then the auction probably already showed some photos. But I can almost guarantee you that they weren't detailed enough. Most sellers take a few overall shots and then maybe a pic or two of the engine and interior. Ask for more. With digital cameras and email it doesn't cost the seller anything more than 30 minutes to snap a ton of photos. If you can get a video that's even better. Either way, when looking at Mustangs for sale ask for the following shots:

• Engine from both sides (with the air cleaner off preferably) as well as from underneath. You're looking for general condition as well as evidence of leaks, aftermarket parts and original parts that are critical to a particular year or option.
• VIN and data plates. These are in multiple locations so get shots of all so you can verify the numbers all match.
• Suspension and undercarriage. Look for leaks and rust.
• Typical rust spots; inside fender wells, shock towers, rear quarter panels below the trunk, bottom of doors, bottom rear of front fenders, underside of floor pans.
• Trunk and inner rear quarter panels. This is a good place to find evidence of a wreck.
• Interior. The typical one shot isn't enough here. Get photos of both front seats and rear, dash, odometer reading, steering wheel, pedals, carpet, etc.
• Body. You're looking for more than overall shots. You want photos sighting down each side of the car to show you waves or dents. Same with the hood, top and trunk lid. You don't want shots looking down on these items. You want them looking across so you can study the reflections for any body problems or sign of past accidents.
• Unique items to that year or style. Get detailed photos of any part that makes that particular car unique. If it's a Boss 302 get shots of the flared fenders, shock tower supports, exhaust manifolds, etc.
• Paperwork. Ask for photos of any supporting paperwork, like original owners manual, build sheet, receipts, Marti report, etc.
• Extra Parts? - If you're one of those brave souls who buying one of those project Mustangs for sale, then be sure to get all the parts that the seller may have taken off during the disassembly process.

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Contact the Seller

When buying a Mustang online it’s natural to communicate with the seller via email. There’s nothing wrong with email and you should use it as your initial tool to get basic info on the car. But then take the communication to the next level and get on the phone.

Emails can give you all the facts about the car, but say little about the seller. Having even a single phone conversation will speak volumes about what kind of person you’re dealing with. Do they hesitate when answering your questions? Do they redirect the conversation away from potential problems? Do they seem knowledgeable about the car? Pay attention not only to what the seller says, but how he says it. If something sounds strange or inconsistent follow up with more detailed questions. If you still have that unsure feeling from those answers then move on to another car. A sketchy seller is probably hiding all sorts of details about the car, and those details are sure to be expensive for you to fix. There are plenty of Mustangs for sale out there, so if your gut says something is wrong trust it.

• Authenticity - You need to verify that the Mustang is what the seller says it is. Obviously you’ll need to do your homework here to know what specific questions to ask. But at a minimum get the VIN, data plate codes and ask about any supporting documentation like build sheets or Marti reports.
• Originality - Ask for a list of all aftermarket parts that have been installed. Also ask if the seller still has any original parts he’s replaced.
• Body - Any accidents? Any body work? Any rust or bubbles in the paint? How recent is the paint and is it original?
• Interior – Anything non-original? If it’s been restored, how recently? Does everything work? (horn, turn signals, radio, heater, AC, etc.)
• Mechanics – How many miles? Has the engine or transmission been rebuilt? Is it still stock? How’s the suspension and brakes? Any squeaks on the bumps or noises when braking?
• Seller Info – Reason for selling? How many owners? Any past history from previous owners? Is the title clear and in the seller’s name?
• Maintenance – How often was it serviced? Any receipts or records? Is it regularly driven? If not, how long has it been sitting? How many miles driven a year?
• Extra Parts - If it's a Mustang project car, be sure to ask about any extra parts that may come with it.

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